Clipless Pedals?

Clipless pedals simply attach you to the bike and shouldn’t affect how you actually move on the bike. You should be able to ground your feet so they don’t fly off and be able to pedal without your feet coming off no matter what pedal system you use. Losing your mechanical attachment point to the bike should not drop your performance by more than 3-5%, otherwise you’re not creating the movement in the most efficient and powerful manner in the first place.

I think that this gets lost in the whole discussion – the pro riders that everyone points to in defense of the superiority of clipless pedals can rip with flats as well. They can flat out ride a bike and know how to apply a clean, efficient pedal stroke and riding technique regardless of the pedal interface.

Sure, they may be faster with clipless pedals but it isn’t this massive performance gap that you see with the average clipless user.

There are lessons that you learn from being able to ride, manual, bunny hop and jump with flat pedals that you can get around learning with clipless pedals. Learning those lessons will make you a better rider with clipless pedals if you even choose to use them.

I guess that’s my ultimate point – make sure that you can ride a bike first and then look to use equipment and technology to potentially enhance your progress. You need to know how to apply good, functional movement to the bike and that means being able to do it without being attached to your bike.

If I had my way everyone would start out on a hard tail bike with flat pedals and graduate to more technology once they’ve learned to ride without it.

It isn’t really about clipless pedals and being attached to your bike, it is about an industry wide misuse of the technology. Using that attachment point to feed into dysfunctions is one of the main reasons cycling has such an insane overuse injury rate.

Learn to pedal without the aid of technology and then you’ll be healthier and more powerful with it.

For a lot of riders, finding out that you can pedal up anything with flats that you can with clipless and that you can learn to keep your feet planted has been a revelation. They are realizing that most of the advantages given to clipless pedals are not really in the system itself, it is in the power given to it in the mind of riders told from day one that it is a vastly superior system and a must for all serious riders.

To draw this to a close, I’m not saying that flats are “better”. I am saying that they are not the inferior choice they are made out to be by the mountain biking industry.

You can “connect” with your bike on either system, but from a movement and technique perspective you should be able to ride flats without a serious performance drop off. Using them as a crutch and using them as a true performance enhancer are two different things and recognizing this can help make you a much better overall rider.

 

 

 

 

Why clipless pedals don’t really “connect” you to your bike…

The Language of Bicycle Parts

People who talk about bikes can sometimes sound like they’re speaking a foreign language all of their own. Some of the words they keep using are completely unfathomable and bizarre, and some sound familiar but often mean something completely different than expected. The language of bikes is not just a way of keeping in the clique though – it is vital to be able to identify specific parts.

Disc brake calipers: These are bolted to special disc mounts on your frame or fork. Operating the lever forces thin, hard pads onto your rotor, the metal disc attached to your hub. Powerful and lightweight, these can be daunting to service because they are new technology. However they respond well to treatment with a few basic tools. Mechanical versions use normal V-brake levers and cables; hydraulic disc brakes use an oil-filled hose to force brake pads onto the rotor.

Cables and hoses: Connecting brake levers to calipers or V-brake units, these need to be kept in good condition to transmit an accurate signal. Speed control, as well as raw braking power, is vital. Steel cables run through lengths of outer casing from brake levers to V-brakes. Hoses are the stiff plastic tubes that transfer hydraulic brake fluid from hydraulic brake levers to calipers.

Rear derailleur: This moves the chain step by step across the cassette sprockets. Different-sized sprockets give you different gear ratios, so that you can pedal at a constant rate over a range of different speeds. The movement of the rear derailleur is controlled by a cable on the shifter on the right-hand side of the handlebar. Correct adjustment gives you slick shifting and ensures maximum life for your chain, chain set, and cassette.

Chain set: This consists of one, two, or three chain rings bolted together. Like the cassette sprockets, choosing a different-sized chain ring gives you a different gear ratio. Larger chain rings give you a higher gear which is harder to push but propels you further on each pedal stroke. Smaller chain rings give you a lower gear, allowing you to climb steep hills. Chain rings will wear out over time, the valleys between the teeth stretching until the chain slips under pressure.

Cassette and Freehub: Your cassette consists of a set of different-sized sprockets bolted together. Currently nine-speed cassettes are most common and combine with the three chain rings on your chain set to give you 27 gears. Smaller cassette sprockets give you a higher (harder0 gear for maximum speed, and larger sprockets give you a lower (easier) gear for climbing hills. The cassette is fitted to a freehub on your rear wheel.

Chain: The chain connects your chain set to your cassette, so that when you pedal, the back wheel goes around. It needs to be strong so it does not snap when you stand on your pedals and stamp up a hill, but it must also be flexible so that it can shift from side to side across the cassette and chain set. Chain width needs to match your cassette: for example, nine-speed cassettes have narrower, more closely spaced sprockets than older eight-speeds so you need a narrower chain.

Headset: The main bearing at the front of your bike, the headset connects your forks to your frame. This part is often ignored because it is mostly hidden in the frame. This bearing must be adjusted so it turns smoothly without rattling – any play or binding will affect your bike’s handling. There are two types of headsets: the newer “Aheadset” type has almost completely superseded the older threaded headset. Regular servicing keeps bearings running smoothly and helps your headset last longer.

Bottom Bracket: Bottom brackets are another “out of sight, out of mind” component. The bottom bracket axle connects your two cranks together through the frame. If worn and loose, the bottom bracket can lead to front gear shifting problems and cause your chain to wear out. Worn bottom brackets can be spotted by checking for side to side play in your cranks. Usually supplied as a sealed unit, this part must be replace when worn or stiff. This repair needs a couple of specific but inexpensive tools.

Wheels: Building wheels can seem daunting, but it is very satisfying to ride around on a pair you have built yourself. Building a wheel consists of two steps: weaving the spokes together to connect hub and rim, and tensioning each spoke so that the rim is flat and perfectly round. A wheel jig is essential for this task. it holds the wheel steady and has indicators that help you decide which spokes need to be adjusted and by how much.

Hubs: Well-adjusted hub bearings let wheels spin freely and save you energy. When properly adjusted, your bearings will be tight enough to prevent any side to side play without being so tight they slow you down. occasional servicing to clean out any grit and dirt that has worked its way in will keep your wheels turning smoothly. Fresh, clean grease helps keep moisture out of your hubs. Jet-washing is tempting after a muddy ride, but will drive water in past your hub seals, flushing out the grease.

Suspension: Suspension makes your ride smoother. Almost all new mountain bikes come with front suspension forks, and full suspension bikes (with front suspension forks and a rear shock unit) get lighter and cheaper every year. Suspension bikes are better because they absorb trail shock and make you faster over uneven ground. The suspension keeps your center of gravity moving forward rather than up and down. Front forks and rear shocks need setting up for your weight and riding style.

Pedals: Introduced from road bikes, clipless pedals have replaced toe clips: a key-shaped cleat on the bottom of your shoe locks into a sprung mechanism on your pedals. The idea of clipless pedals is daunting for the first-timer, but you will appreciate the extra power once you are used to them. Because your shoe is firmly attached, all your energy throughout the pedal stroke is used. Clean, oiled cleats will release your shoe instantly when you twist your foot. Many riders prefer flat pedals with studs.

Welcome

Welcome to my first blog (I know, everyone is doing one by now)! This blog will talk about everything you will need to know when it comes to biking (mountain, road, etc.) and enjoying the great outdoors. I will talk about running, biking, camping, hiking, outdoor photography, hunting, and fishing. My first son was born last fall, so he and his mother are going to join in the adventures we will share. C’mon, let’s jump outside!